2018-09-17 15:27 Sophie
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION 2019春季系列宛如一场环球之旅。明亮的色彩和大胆的图案是这一季的亮点,秀场充斥着青绿色、西瓜红、柿子黄、柠檬黄、青柠色等高饱和度色彩。缤纷盛开的花卉及水生生物图案与斑马纹和豹纹遥相呼应,更有条纹、斑点、马德拉斯格纹点缀其间。即使是简单的蓝色系或纯白图案,都被赋予了生机。从浪漫的英格兰刺绣,到精致的手工编织蕾丝,通过大量珠饰的点缀,仿若由一场沙滩派对完美过渡到华丽晚宴。
运动风与浪漫主义的完美融合更是此场秀的一大看点。休闲运动服被重新演绎——带有金属光泽的防磨外套、羊绒卫衣、手工刺绣牛仔裤、金属质感的锦缎,奢华且实用。青春洋溢的流苏夹克、短裙、长裤和单肩包、显眼的手绘花卉巨蟒图案,个性又百搭。充满魅力的工装裤、展露修长双腿的热裤、光面的侧条纹运动裤、夸张的阔腿裤,尽显个性。
MICHAEL KORS 2019春季男士系列,演绎都市冲浪风。蓝色主体的男装配以黑、白、灰、褐以及青柠绿,清爽又不失沉稳。马德拉斯花格布短裤套装,奢华羊绒大衣与巴哈套头衫,防风外套与光面的运动裤,简约干练。手袋与鞋履款式多样,绒面皮木底鞋、粗犷设计型凉鞋和高帮运动鞋,帆布背包和双肩背包,完美适用都市生活与海边度假。
PCLADY专访Michael Kors
与MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION 2019春季系列一同启程,拥抱明媚阳光,并与MICHAEL KORS设计师Michael Kors畅谈其设计初衷及本季的设计灵感。
Michael Kors
“我一直秉承一个理念: 时尚可以影响一个人,也可以改造一个人。这无穷的潜力,能够使你在一瞬间改头换面,从你的心情乃至你的生活。时尚可以帮助你发掘自我以及内心想要成为的对象。”
——Michael Kors
如果你以为设计师Michael Kors在设计事业的态度,也如同其个人风格着装一般简约随意(一条牛仔裤、黑色T恤、夹克外套和褶皱的皮包),那么就错了。他为顾客提供的配饰以及成衣,始终亮丽、时尚而又穿着舒适,同时又是性感与动感相互交织的魅力缩影。Michael Kors已经建立了一个持久性与标志性并存的奢侈品帝国,并且他拥有鲜明的理念以及全球影响力。
Michael Kors出生在长岛(Long Island)的梅瑞克(Merrick)(一个距离纽约23英里的郊区城镇)Michael Kors的第一次崭露头角是在他五岁时,他对他的母亲第二次婚礼要穿着的婚纱提出了建议。Kors曾在曼哈顿的时装技术学院学习时装设计。1981年,Kors离开学校,在他的作品被Lothar赞誉之后,Kors开始在纽约的西57街的引领时尚精品店创造属于自己的品牌。1984年秋季,Michael Kors个人的首场时装秀成功举办,在回顾中,WWD称他的设计为“高端,经典休闲系列”同时“简约而不失优雅”。
PCLADY:
What is your inspiration of this new season?
(您新一季的设计灵感源自什么?)
Michael Kors:
This collection is all about escape and optimism. I think everyone dreams of turquoise water, blue skies, sunshine and romance. I think fashion has to bring joy, and ultimately that was my inspiration for this season, a burst of joy from me to you.
(MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION 2019春季系列主题是环球旅行,逃离都市生活,积极向上的生活态度。我认为每个人都梦想着碧海、蓝天、阳光与浪漫,每个人都在追求快乐。时尚应该为大家带来快乐,这也是我这一季的设计灵感,将从我身上迸发出来的快乐带给大家。)
PCLADY:
How do you describe your brand?
(您自己如何描述您的品牌?)
Michael Kors:
The Michael Kors brand is about chic, luxurious sportswear designed for the modern jet-setter. Our customers come to us because they want to dress for speed and ease but they don’t want to sacrifice glamour or quality. People need clothes and accessories that can keep up with their lives and always look great, and that’s what we offer.
(MICHAEL KORS的设计理念——Jet Set,是一种奢华、时尚而充满自信的生活态度。人们可以随时随地准备出发,随时在路途上,不论走到哪里都可以时尚优雅。我们的消费者想要轻松、快速地打造时尚舒适的造型,但又同时追求迷人魅力与产品质量,消费者需要紧跟时代与生活的、时髦有型的服饰与配饰,而这些就是MICHAEL KORS所一直为消费者提供的。)
PCLADY:
When did you first realize you wanted to pursue a career as a designer?
(从何时起,您开始有意向时装设计方面发展并成为一名设计师?)
Michael Kors:
Fashion was always my passion. I was very opinionated about style when I was young, and became the shopping companion for my mother and grandmother. I had relatives working in the textile business and my mother worked as a model, so fashion was in my blood. In high school, I would doodle and sketch all the time – I just knew I would be a designer.
(时尚一直是我的挚爱与激情所在。在我很小的时候,我就对时尚很有主见,和我妈妈、祖母的一起逛街。当时我有亲戚在纺织行业工作,而我母亲是名模特,所以时尚当时已经融入我的血液中了。在高中的时候,我坚持涂鸦和素描——我就是知道我会成为一名设计师。)
PCLADY:
How is working in fashion industry different today from when you started out?
(您怎样看待如今的时尚界,与您刚入行时的有何不同?)
Michael Kors:
Fashion is always a reflection of the times. It’s always current and it’s always alive. Over the years, I’ve seen all the rules broken – sequins for day, pants for night, sneakers for work, anything goes, and I love it. What I find most interesting today is that the world is moving faster than ever before, and that’s having two different effects on fashion. On the one hand, you have the idea of sportswear – of clothes that function and keep up with everyday life but still look great. But also, people are looking to fashion for an escape from the everyday – they want clothes and pieces that make them smile, that bring a breath of fresh air into the wardrobe, and that have an artisanal feel. That’s what has made fashion so important nowadays.
(时尚永远是时代的反映,它永远是鲜活的、具有生命力的。多年来,我看到所有的规则都被打破——白天穿亮片服装,晚上穿长裤,上班穿运动鞋,非常多元化,具有无限可能性,我很喜欢。如今我最感兴趣的是,世界运转飞快,对时尚产生了两种不同的影响。一方面,人们爱穿运动服——这些服装平时日常生活能穿,功能性强,仍然看起来时髦。但同时,人们也在寻找一种摆脱日常生活的时尚——他们想要真正喜欢的服装,能给衣柜带来新鲜血液的、具有手工工艺感的服装。这就是当今时尚如此重要的原因。)
PCLADY:
What role do you think social media plays in fashion industry today?
(您认为社交媒体在当今时尚产业中扮演着怎样的角色?)
Michael Kors:
The fashion industry is constantly evolving, and it’s more democratic than ever now that people have access to runway shows and designers through social media – which I think is great. It has made fashion much more global. When I first started, we made different clothes for Chicago and LA. But social media has globalized fashion to such a point that if a bag works in Rio, it also works in China and London and Spain.
(时尚产业在不断发展,人们可以通过社交媒体接触时装秀和设计师,这比以往任何时候都更加民主——我认为这很赞,这种方式让时尚变得更加全球化。我刚开始设计MICHAEL KORS的时候,为芝加哥和洛杉矶提供不同的符合当地需求的服装。但社交媒体已经将时尚全球化到:如果一个手袋在里约热内卢行得通卖得好,那么它在中国、伦敦和西班牙也没问题。)
PCLADY:
What is your favorite part of being a designer?
(作为设计师,您最喜欢的是什么?)
Michael Kors:
I’ve always loved fashion and I’ve always loved clothes. To be able to travel, take the inspiration that I find in the world and harness it into a runway collection is amazing.
(我一直热爱时尚与服装,能够旅行,能够在旅行中得到灵感,并将收获运用到秀场系列,这是我最喜欢的地方。)
PCLADY:
How do you want women to feel when they wearing your clothes?
(当女性穿着您所设计的服饰时,希望她们有着怎样的感受?)
Michael Kors:
My goal has always been to make women feel confident the minute they step into one of my designs – to give them simple solutions for looking and feeling like their best self.
(我的目标一直都是,为穿着MICHAEL KORS的女性带来无限自信,轻松做最好的自己。)
PCLADY:
What trends do you currently see in the fashion industry?
(时装行业,您认为将如何发展?)
Michael Kors:
I think fashion is moving towards a more personal look, toward clothes and accessories that work for your own life and your mood. It’s all about embracing your personal style and being your best self.
(我认为时尚变得更加个性化,服装与配饰更加适合个人的生活方式与当下心情,是拥抱个人风格,做最好的自己。)
PCLADY:
What is your greatest strength? How does it help you become a fashion designer?
(您的强项是什么?在成为时装设计师的道路上,对您有着怎样的助力?)
Michael Kors:
I have empathy for my customer and that’s a big thing. A lot of designers don’t put themselves in the consumer’s place and, as a designer, I believe it’s very important to think about how your designs are going to make your customers feel.
(我非常了解、理解我的消费者,这很重要。很多设计师并不站在消费者的角度思考。作为一个设计师,我相信思考消费者的感受非常重要。)
PCLADY:
What skills are important for a successful fashion designer?
(对于一个成功的时装设计师来说,什么技能至关重要?)
Michael Kors:
I think the most important thing for a young designer is to spend time in the shops and on the street. Before ever thinking about creating a collection, designers should spend time with their customers and see what they are buying, what they’re not buying, where they are traveling to, and what do they do for a living. If you lock yourself in the studio, you might be making clothes that look beautiful but they won’t get worn out in the world.
(我认为对于一个年轻的设计师来说,最重要的是在商店里和街上投入时间和精力。在考虑创造一个系列之前,设计师应该多和他们的消费者在一起,研究他们买什么,不买什么,去哪里旅行,以及他们以什么为生。如果你把自己禁锢在工作室里,你可能会做一些看起来很漂亮时髦,但没人会穿的衣服。)